We've made a regular lotion (about 70% water) and we've made a thick cream (about 60% water), so let's take a look at light lotions. They are great for body and face - you might call them a moisturizing milk or a facial moisturizer. They're fine for bottling in non-pump bottles as they are quite thin and will flow nicely.
A light lotion would be around 80% water, so we need to pack as many goodies as we can in a small oil and cool down phase. We're going to maximize our water phase by using aloe vera, hydrosols, and humectants, and we're going to leave out the butters and stearic acid in favour of light oils, esters (like IPM or cetyl esters), and cetyl alcohol. We're going to want maximum glide and emolliency.
We'll make a light body lotion today and a facial moisturizer tomorrow. These are very different products, although they'll have the same basic formulation - 80% water phase, 0.5% to 1% preservative, and 19% oil phase and cool down ingredients. We won't be using fragrances in our facial moisturizer, although there are some great essential oils we might want to consider.
LIGHT BODY LOTION...WHAT SHOULD WE USE?
- Water phase - 58% water, 10% aloe vera, 10% lavender or rose hydrosol, 2% sodium lactate or other humectant
- Oil phase(18% to 18.5%) - oils, emulsifier, cetyl alcohol, IPM.
- Cool down phase - 0.5% to 1% preservative, 1% fragrance, 2 to 4% silicones, proteins, and panthenol.
We know we are going to need about 4% emulsifier and 2 to 3% cetyl alcohol, so we can use about 11% oils in here. I like to include 2% IPM in everything - it's a light, emollient ester that increases skin absorption time - so that leaves us with 9%.
For the oils, choose what you like. If I'm making something I want to use as a spray lotion for a camping trip, I'm going to choose fractionated coconut oil. If I'm making something for the winter months, I want olive oil to do double duty as emollient and humectant. If I'm making something for general use that I'm going to put into a pump, then I'll probably use an extra light and light oil combination - something like fractionated coconut oil and sunflower, safflower, soy bean, or sweet almond oil. I could include rice bran oil here, or I could be really decadent and use an exotic oil (this is a great thing for a facial moisturizer...)
As you know, I'm a huge fan of the olive oil - humectant-y goodness - and fractionated coconut oil, so I'm going to use those in this lotion. This is something I want to have on my upcoming road trip/honeymoon in May, so I figure these are two oils that my skin loves and I can keep it in my purse for a quick application. (I always seem to get dry skin on road trips - probably the combination of the air conditioning and being in less humid climates like Idaho!)
A LIGHT LOTION RECIPE
WATER PHASE (you can use 78% water if you don't have the hydrosols!)
10% aloe vera
10% lavender water
2% sodium lactate
4% fractionated coconut oil
4% olive oil
2% cetyl alcohol
4% emulsifier (25% of my oil phase)
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
1. Weigh out your water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler.
2. Weigh out your oil phase in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler.
3. When both containers have reached 70C, weigh out your water again, then add it to your oil container.
4. Blend with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat this process as often as you would like until the temperature reaches 45C.
5. Let cool to 45C, then add your fragrance or essential oil and preservative. Mix well with your hand mixer or stick blender, then let cool.
6. When the mixture has cooled, pour into a bottle - you don't need a pump for this one - and let set a few hours.
Yay! You've made a light lotion. As with other lotions, if you change the emulsifier or oils, it will change the consistency, so play around with this and see what you can make!
Join us tomorrow for making your own facial moisturizer! If you haven't tweaked a recipe yet, you're going to want to tweak this one!