BASIC BODY BUTTER RECIPEWATER PHASE
2% sodium lactate or glycerin
15% shea butter
3% cetyl alcohol
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5 to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil blend
Okay, first things first - I want that 3% menthol in there, as well as the 0.5% each of camphor and eucalyptus because Wanda loves those. And I'll need more humectants in there. I need to take a look at the oils and butters to see if they work well, and I want to add some goodies to the water and cool down phase.
Humectants: Need more! So let's add 3% glycerin to this mix. I'll 2% sodium lactate as well because I like it, and I'm not worried about sun sensitizing for a foot lotion.
Allantoin: I like it at 0.5% for barrier protection.
Hydrolyzed protein: Again, I like this at 2% for film forming and moisturizing. I think I'll go with silk amino acids since I have some and since they will actually penetrate skin.
Panthenol: Love this stuff and it works well for damaged skin. 2% in the cool down phase for sure!
Water phase: I like aloe and lavender in a foot care product. Since I won't have a huge water phase, I think I'll leave the water out entirely and just go with equal parts of these liquids instead. I can't decide on the amounts until I see what my oil phase is...so let's move on for a moment.
Oils and butters: I've been going with rice bran oil and mango butter, but would something else work? What about calendula oil? It has good levels of linoleic acid (27.5%) but contains conjugated linoleic acid, which is fantastic for reducing inflammation. It is also anti-septic, anti-bacterial, and anti-microbial, with healing properties for wounds. It's a light dry oil, and might be a good addition. Cranberry oil might be a fine choice with the nice levels of linoleic acid, good Vitamin E levels, and tons of phytosterols that will help reduce inflammation, redness, and itching? Or pomegranate oil with the punicic acid that offers cell regenerating, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial properties? It increases skin elasticity, as well. And the the other polyphenols can help with wound and burn healing, increase skin regeneration, thicken the skin, and offer anti-inflammatory benefits. Or sea buckthorn oil with its high levels of Vitamin E, palmitoleic acid that can help with wounds and scratches, and high phytosterol levels to help with anti-inflammatory benefits?
Okay, let's back up a second. Which butter should I choose? If I go with mango butter, I might consider using greasier oils. If I go with shea butter, dryness might be a bonus. Hmm, which one works well? Let's be honest...either are great choices. I think I'll go with mango butter because I do have a ton of it in the house and it does offer anti-fungicidal and anti-microbial properties. Although shea does contain allantoin - bonus! - I'm adding it to the water phase any way, so let's choose mango butter.
We have our butter. Does this change our oil choice? Possibly. Let's take a look at some carrier oils we could use first, then add exotic oils if we feel like it. (I feel a bit like John Cleese yelling at his students in the "Meaning of Life"! Do we need to go stampeding towards the exotic oils when we have less expensive but similarly awesome carrier oils at our disposal?)
What about avocado oil? It's a heavier feeling dry oil with all kinds of wonderful phytosterols to help with moisturizing and inflammation, and it is well absorbed by the skin. It is a high oleic oil, so we'd want something with linoleic oil to help with barrier protection. Sunflower oil is a light, greasy feeling oil with high levels of linoleic acid - this might be a great choice - or soy bean oil with a longer shelf life and nice levels of phytosterols for moisturizing and anti-inflammation. (We could also use all sesame or rice bran oil for a nice balance of fatty acids!)
I think I'll go with a mixture of mango butter, avocado oil, and soybean oil for this application. Let's leave the exotic oils for another time. In the original version of this body butter we used 10% oils and 15% butters. I really want the linoleic acid contribution of the soybean oil for repairing the skin's barrier protection, so I think I'll switch those amounts around and use 15% oils (10% soy bean oil, 5% avocado oil) and 10% butters.
Silicones: 2% dimethicone offers good barrier protection, so that's going into the cool down phase.
Emulsifiers: Our oil phase is now 32% of our recipe - 25% oils and butters, 2% dimethicone, 3% menthol, and 1% essential oils. I want to include some cetyl alcohol in here for the thickening and glide, so let's do that at 3%. Our total is now 35% oil phase. At 1/4 for Polawax, we need to use 8.75% emulsifier. Round it up to 9% (I'm not a fan of fractions!) and we have our emulsifier amount.
Okay, so what do we have so far? Our ingredients make up 53%!
Water phase - 7.5% of the recipe
Oil phase - 40.0% of the recipe
Cool down phase - 5.5% of the recipe
We'll go with 30% aloe vera, 23% lavender hydrosol for this application and leave out the water entirely!
MODIFIED BODY BUTTER RECIPE FOR REALLY TRASHED FEET!
30% aloe vera
23% lavender hydrosol
2% sodium lactate
2% silk amino acids
10% soybean oil
5% avocado oil
10% mango butter
3% cetyl alcohol
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
0.5% camphor essential oil
0.5% eucalyptus essential oil
So we have a lovely foot lotion to soothe the dry skin of my bestest friend made with all kinds of weird and wonderful stuff. How is this different than modifying a lotion? Honestly, not a lot different. If you compare yesterday's post and today's post, you'll see we end up at almost the same point. Part of this are my preferences as a formulator, part of this is because there are only so many variations on lotions you can make!
Join me tomorrow for more formulating fun!