Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Formulating with oils - solid scrub bars

What else can I make anti-itching for Raymond? What about a solid scrub bar he can use in the shower? This is a product I've made many times in the past - should I tweak it?

50% cocoa butter
20% mango, shea or other butter
3% cetyl alcohol
4% Incroquat BTMS
2% wax of choice - beeswax, soy wax, etc. For candellia wax, please use 1% as it is very hard.
3% sodium lactate
12% oils - sunflower, rice bran, olive oil at 4% each
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
1% fragrance oil
1% Vitamin E (if you are using oils with less than 6 months' shelf life)

Add up to 100% sugar, salt, or beads. It really is your preference.

It has cocoa butter and shea or mango butter. I think I'll go with mango butter as it contains mangiferin and caffeic acids, both of which are good anti-inflammatory ingredients, and oleic acid, which is very moisturizing. This will make the bar feel a little drier than if I'd used shea alone.

For the oils, I've chosen sunflower, rice bran, and olive oil as a combination in the past. The sunflower oil is light and high linoleic, and contains a lot of nice phytosterols. The rice bran oil is well balanced in fatty acids and contains oryzanol and ferulic acid. And the olive oil is heavy, high oleic, and contains very nice phytosterols. It also contains squalene and behaves as a humectant.

In the winter months, I still want a balance of linoleic and oleic fatty acids in my products - the former is good for skin barrier repair and the latter is good for moisturizing. I'm not that worried about light vs. heavy right now, so I won't be limited that way.

I'm thinking I might tweak this to only include two oils - olive oil (I need my humectant!) and sunflower oil. I really like rice bran oil (and I could just include that), but I want the humectant-y goodness of olive oil, and I need something high linoleic to join it in the mix.

I also need my oils to be greasier because the mango butter is astringent and I need something that will glide over skin. Olive oil and sunflower oil definitely fit that bill!

So in the end, I didn't need to do a ton of tweaking to this recipe. I'm pleased with my oil and butter choices, but I'll be using 6% of each of my oils instead of 4% of three different ones!

For very dry skin...try using shea butter and high linoleic oils like sunflower, soybean, or sesame oil, or even high GLA oils like evening primrose, borage oil, or blackcurrant oil.

For sun damaged skin...try using shea butter and olive oil (high in phytosterols), avocado oil, hempseed oil (add 1% Vitamin E to compensate for the shorter shelf life), rice bran oil, or wheat germ oil. (Although you might want to be careful with the exfoliants if your intended recipient has a sunburn!)

For aging skin...try using cocoa or shea butter, and high linoleic acid oils with high levels of Vitamin E for moisturizing, like rice bran, sunflower, soybean, or sesame oil.

For acne prone skin...try using mango butter (more astringent) with high linoleic acid oils with high levels of anti-inflammation and anti-redness features, like apricot kernel, sesame seed, soybean oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ, evening primrose, or borage oil.

For all skin types...try using cocoa butter (an occlusive ingredient) with a balance of linoleic and oleic acids like sesame or rice bran oil, both of which contain some nice levels of Vitamin E, phytosterols, and polyphenols.

Join me tomorrow for more formulating an anti-itch spray (which, I realize, would not normally contain oils, but I'm including some!)


CariotaFamily said...

I am making this scrub bar now and am surprised not to see a broad spectrum preservative such as Phenonip in this recipe. I know you're a stickler for preservatives (so am I) and can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be included. Perhaps I'm forgetting why it is not needed.

Elizabeth in ATL

CariotaFamily said...

And another observation about the sodium lactate in this scrub bar recipe. Its melting point is 160C!, so this isn't your typical "heat to 70C and hold for 20 minutes". I do have some sodium lactoacetate I may use to see if it will melt more easily.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Elizabeth! You would want to include a preservative in this product, like Phenonip, at 1% in the heated phase. I have to update this recipe with that.

As for the sodium lactate, I'm not sure what ingredient you are using, but mine comes as a liquid and doesn't need to melt. I incorporate it into the heated phase.

ME G said...

Hi Susan,
in one of your post i have sein that you've mentioned that you use e-wax/pola wax in solid scrub bars( i cannot locate this post, sorry?)
Could you tell me please what percent of these waxes can be used in the bars, can these waxes add hardness to the bars if percentage increased?
Also can we add myristic acid to the bars, i've read that myristic acid acts as cleansing agent?

Thank you, Irina.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Irina. If you click on the link in the blog post, it'll take you to the how to formulate a scrub bar post, where I talk about using other emulsifiers. Myristic acid is like stearic acid in that it's a hard fatty acid that will offer moisturizing and hardness to the bar. It won't clean in this bar.

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan
Wondering if you may be able to assist. I am actually looking to produce a scrub bar which will melt/break away in the shower after a single use - would this recipe achieve this goal or will it be too hard? Appreciate any advice you can impart as I'm new to this and feel as though I'm completely out of my depth! Anne

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anne. Try a small batch of this recpe and see if it fits what you want. I'm not sure how to make it single use - I get at least three uses out of my bars - but maybe 33 to 55 grams per bar will work? I'm not really sure.