Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Body wash with esters

I'm finally getting around to playing with my esters and other light oils from the Personal Formulator, so I thought I'd share another recipe with you using those ingredients! (If you want to see the balm with esters, click here. I'm really loving the light, non-greasy feeling of these ingredients!)

This is a basic body wash type recipe for oily skin, but I've used PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and myristamine oxide.

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate is a non-ionic, low ethoxylated monoglyceride that can behave as an emulsifier, emollient, foamer, and skin conditioner in our products. It is a thickening polymer, meaning it will thicken your surfactant mix when used with anionic surfactants. It is emollient, which means it will reduce skin irritation from other surfactants, and will re-fatten your skin when you are bathing or shampooing. It can make the foam feel slippery, which is a nice thing in a body wash. It's not really a detergent type surfactant - you'd never use it as the primary or even co-surfactant because it's meant to boost the qualities of your surfactant mix. Use it at 2% to 10% in cleansers and shampoos.

Myristamine Oxide is a cleansing agent, emulsifier, hair conditioner, emollient, foam stabilizer, viscosity booster, and foam booster. I wanted to play with this in body washes to see what conditioning it offers. Use at 5 to 20%.

So here's the recipe! I've included 0.5% white willow bark to help with the keratosis pilaris my husband and I are both enjoying this summer. This does make it a kind of swampy green colour - it's not very pretty, but it feels lovely. (Here's another version of this body wash with white willow bark). If you don't colour it, it will end up a brownish colour!

12% cocamidopropyl betaine
16% BSB
12% C14-16 olefin sulfonate
30% warm distilled water
10% aloe vera liquid
5% PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
5% myristamine oxide
3% polyquat 7
3% glycerin
2% cromoist
2% panthenol
0.5% preservative (liquid Germall Plus)
0.5% white willow bark
up to 2% Crothix

Mix the surfactants together well, then add the rest of the ingredients (except the panthenol, preservative, and white willow bark) and continue to mix. Try not to get too many bubbles. Heat a little water and dissolve the white willow bark into it. Add the panthenol, white willow bark, and preservative. Mix again.

If you don't have BSB concentrate, use another surfactant you like, preferably something mild as we're going for extreme mildness in this body wash. You can use a baby type blend, decyl glucoside, or any other surfactant you really like. If you want to modify this for dry skin, switch out the C14-16 olefine sulfonate for SMC or SMO taurate or another mild surfactant.

The funny thing about this recipe is the lack of viscosity. Normally this recipe would be quite thick - between the BSB concentrate (very thick) and the aloe (electrolytes help thicken) and the PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate - and a lower concentration of water - but I chose to add a very thinning fragrance oil (Pearberry) and I had to use 5% Crothix to make it sufficiently viscous for my body wash preferences! But the Crothix acts as a re-fattener of our skin and decreases irritation, so it's all good. This is one of those situations where the unintended consequences of an ingredient works for me (see this post) as I've increased the Crothix so much, it creates a really mild cleanser that allows the esters to stay on my skin!

Well, I best be off to take a shower - I'm really loving this body wash!!!


kontakt said...

Hm. If PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate is a non-ionic, low ethoxylated monoglyceride. What would PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate be? It's not in the INCI Directory, strangely. Perhaps there is something wrong with that INCI name. On my bottle there's a comma after the first "glyceryl". That could just a German way of writing it (this ingredient is ordered from Germany) but... I'm not sure. It was described as something similar to your PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate. Don't ask me why I bought it, a small bottle was cheap and - well. Thinking about thickening issues, I guess. The retailer does not speak/write English very well, unfortunately.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi kontakt: I'm fairly sure it should be "PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate". There are many ingredients with names like that - take Crothix, which is PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate (and) PEG-6 caprylic/capric trigylcerides (and) water. It's probably something of that nature.

I found the product - Rewoderm LI S 80 - and they are two separate ingredients in this thickener.

This is a great idea for a post!

kontakt said...

I was thinking along the lines of two ingredients but couldn't imagine how an ingredient could end with "glyceryl". After that word, the molecule that the glyceryl group is attached to should come. But of course, there was a word missing... bah. PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate and PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, right. Thanks a lot!

Having wrong information like that in a webshop sucks :( I'll give them a nice email and ask them to correct their information.