in this post with these concerns: Hi. I've had my first epic lotion fail. My question: Can I still use this broken emulsion lotion packed with cosmeceuticals? It has preservative in it so I figure, even if it's not pretty, I assume I can still use it? Just shake it up before each use? Or is there some safety/etc reason I shouldn't use a broken emulsion lotion?
FYI, I got cocky after having a series of successes following your recipes, so I thought it was time to make my own recipe packed with expensive cosmeceuticals.
BTW, I'm pretty sure my problem was I exceeded maximum solubility. I thought maybe I could finagle a higher "average" solubility (eg one thing was 15% soluble in water but another thing was 60% soluble so I thought I could inch the "average" solubility to 20% or so). But no, I think it's like a weakest link thing...the lowest solubility of all your ingredients is the maximum solubility of your entire lotion.
Do you agree with my solubility theory or did I do something else wrong? I would love to make a really concentrated product so I don't have to put 10 different moisturizers on my aging face at night, but maybe that's just not possible.
Click here for a post on troubleshooting a lotion fail!) I'm going to hope you heated and held long enough and had both of the phases at the right temperature before mixing them, so we only have to deal with the idea of ingredients interacting with each other and possible chemical reactions like solubility. It is possible you have too much stuff in a lotion, especially in the cool down phase. It's possible you used an emulsifier that was picky about the cool down phase - like Ritamulse SCG - or you've chosen a preservative that can break your emulsion - like Optiphen. It's possible you combined anionic and cationic ingredients in one lotion and it failed (this isn't always a failure, but it can be a reason for one!).
I think your solubility theory is sound. This is one of the reasons I buy liquid extracts. I know some people say there's no point in shipping water so you should buy the powdered version. But it's valuable to have some liquid versions around so you can reduce the amount of powder you're adding to your product. For instance, I'll use chamomile hydrosol, green tea liquid, and rosemary extract instead of using powdered versions of each one to ensure I'm not overloading my product in the cool down phase. But I have nothing definitive to share about how much stuff you should put into something. Again, I researched for it, but came up with nothing.
Here's a post I wrote on the everything in 1 product. I hate to say it, but I think using a serum, then a moisturizer, then an eye cream is a better choice than trying to get everything into one product!
As for whether the broken lotion is safe or not...I haven't been able to find definitive proof either way of its safety. My gut instinct is to say that I wouldn't use it because it won't feel very nice on your skin...
Does anyone have any resources you can send me so I can research why we shouldn't use a failed lotion from a safety perspective? I've scoured all of mine!
When lotions fail
Troubleshooting a failed lotion
Question: Can I re-heat a failed lotion?
Should we reconsider the everything-in-1 product?