I was thinking about what we might like to put into an eye gel and came up with this list of possible goals...
- film forming
- reducing dark circles
I could add some honeyquat to the mix to be both a conditioning agent and humectant.
UNDER EYE GEL - ASTRINGENT, COOLING, ANTI-INFLAMMATORY (You could call this honey & cucumber eye gel...)
10% witch hazel liquid
0.5% cucumber extract
Dissolve the cucumber extract in a little heated witch hazel (heated slightly to around 45˚C, not boiling!) and add it all to the gel. Mix well. Enjoy.
Let's say I want to work on some fine lines. We can't make any claims here - remember that - but we can choose ingredients that might work for softening and moisturizing, two things we know will make our skin look less wrinkled or fine line-y.
AHA for this application as it's just too hard to mess with the pH and irritate your eye area, but you could start low (no more than 2.5% - 5% of something like Multifruit BSC) and see how your skin likes it. If your skin responds well, you can increase that ingredient at up to 15%, although I don't think that is such a great idea for your sensitive under eye area. You can try something like powdered papaya extract - use at 0.5% in the cool down phase, dissolved in a little warm water - as an exfoliating ingredient, too.
Allantoin is a good choice because it offers keratolytic properties, but I suggest you go no higher than 0.5% in a little warmed liquid and add to the gel as we don't want shards if it doesn't dissolve completely. It works as a humectant and is a great protectant from the elements and an approved barrier occlusive.
What's a keratolytic? From Wikipedia: Keratolytics can also be used to soften keratin, a major component of the skin. This serves to improve the skin's moisture binding capacity, which is beneficial in the treatment of dry skin. Such agents (keratolytics) include urea, lactic acid, and allantoin.
What about panthenol? I have it in the original gel recipe at 1.6% (which means it makes it into the 80% gel at 1.28%). I love this stuff! It works as a humectant, it improves our stratum corneum hydration, it improves skin's barrier repair mechanisms, and it soothes irritation. It's four great things in one! So let's add this at another 1%.
UNDER EYE GEL - KERATOLYTIC, SOFTENING, MOISTURIZING, OCCLUSIVE
2.5% Multifruit BSC (or 0.5% powdered papaya extract)
10% liquid of some kind
85% gel (87.5% if you're using powdered papaya extract)
I recommend the liquid of some kind as this is a thick gel and I want it to be thinner. If you use something like chamomile hydrosol, witch hazel, or distilled water, to name a few things, you'll thin it out. Plus, you can heat that liquid up to dissolve your allantoin!
Could you make a version with all of these things in it? Sure, but remember to check exfoliating ingredients to make sure you aren't loading up too many exfoliating things in one place. Feel free to make one that has all these things and modify how much gel you add, although keep in mind that more liquid means a thinner product.
Join me Monday as we take a look at another version we might make!