gels with carbomers, but stopped because I was distracted by Ritathix DOE, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and a horrible cold, plus I was waiting to hear back from my testers as well as testing it myself. So let's get back to where I was heading, which was to create a couple of really cool under eye gels.
As usual, I ask myself what I want to accomplish with a product, what my goals might be. For an eye gel I want something that offers anti-inflammatory properties, something that might reduce the look of dark circles, something that moisturizes and/or hydrates, and possibly something that will encourage cell turnover. We have to use water soluble ingredients as we don't have an emulsifier in this product. And I'd like something that isn't too strongly coloured, which means some extracts, like grapeseed extract, would be right out.
97% distilled water
1.2% carbomer of choice
0.5% liquid Germall plus
See this post if you want more information on gels before starting.
Please do this in the order listed above. Allow the gel to be wetted before you add phase two. If you don't know what that means, please check with your suggestions for usage, following the manufacturer's or supplier's suggestions on how to make a thick gel over what is listed here.
How do I accomplish the goals I've set out above?
I thought I'd use Revital-Eyes, a cosmeceutical sent to me by the Formulator Sample Shop. (I encourage you to check out the post I've already written to learn more.) It is supposed to help with dark under eye circles, so I thought I'd include it at up to 5% in my product. You can substitute it with water soluble green tea extract or caffeine extract at the suggested usage rates. *
To film form, help with wound healing and inflammation, and (possibly) help with fine lines and wrinkles, I chose to use beta-glucan, an ingredient I wrote about in the cosmeceuticals section of the blog. I can use this at higher levels than I would my proteins without it getting sticky, so I thought it was a good choice.* If you want to use something else, a hydrolyzed protein at up to 5% is a good idea, although that might get a little sticky.
And I thought I'd use quaternized rice - a cationic or positively charged quaternary polymer made from rice - as a conditioning and moisturizing agent. * If you don't have this specific ingredient, you can use any polyquat you might have in your workshop. I don't encourage leaving a cationic polymer out of this product because it offers the moisturizing and hydrating you really want in a product. Good substitutions would be 0.5% polyquat 44, up to 5% polyquat 7, up to 5% honeyquat, or up to 5% polyquat 10. Modify the recipe so it will add up to 100% in the end, so if you use 0.5% polyquat, you'll be adding 4.5% gel or something else to the product.
I removed 40 grams of gel and added these ingredients to it.
UNDER EYE GEL #1
80% thick gel
5% liquid marshmallow extract
5% beta-glucan (oat extract)
5% quaternized rice
Weigh all ingredients, add the gel, and mix well. Yeah, that's pretty much it, which is why you must use distilled water! You'll notice I put my preservative at the maximum amount into the gel making part of the project. This will preserve my product enough, not to worry. If you do worry, don't add the preservative to the gel, but add it at 0.5% to 2% - whatever the recommended amount might be - into the actual eye gel recipe.
What do people think? I really like this version. I don't have dark circles under my eyes, but I like the way it moisturizes and makes my skin more feel more supple. My best friend noted that she felt it was a little heavier than the version you'll see tomorrow, but she feels it was more effective at removing the dark circles under her eyes. Cibele noted, "So far what I like about each of the gels is that they seem to dry quickly. They moisturize without being heavy. They are pretty light in texture and weight. No scent, which is good. They don't feel sticky and dry after a few minutes. I like both of them."
Join me Thursday as we make another version of this under eye gel!
Cosmeceutical section of the blog
Extracts section of the blog
Experiments in the workshop: Making an eye cream - part 1
Experiments in the workshop: Making an eye cream - part 2
Experiments in the workshop: Making an eye cream - part 3
Making an eye cream: Tweaking it with other emulsifiers
Making an eye cream: Using other oils
Making an anhydrous eye gel with cera bellina
*Note: As I've mentioned before, I've been sent a bunch of free ingredients by the Formulator Sample Shop and I've been playing with them in my products. Any opinions expressed here are my own and I have not been compensated in any way to try the ingredients or share my opinion with you, other than the free ingredients. If I don't like something, I'll tell you. If I do like it, I'll tell you. Either way, my only affiliation with this company is that they have sent me some free things. I get no compensation if you shop with them.