Friday, April 25, 2014

How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Lotionpro 165

Lotionpro 165 (INCI Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate) an all-in-one non-ionic emulsifier based on the HLB system used in our heated oil phase to emulsify water and oil together to creation lotions and other emulsified products. It has an HLB value of about 11.2. (You don't need to know this in order to use it, but it's helpful information.)

It's known as an emulsifier that can emulsify large amounts of oil even when used in small amounts. The usage is 1% to 5%, with 2.5% to 5% suggested for 20% to 30%. It offers great stability with AHAs and BHAs (acids), so it would be a good choice for moisturizers. It comes in small white flakes, and we add it to the heated oil phase of your product. Its melting point is at 54˚C to 60 ˚C (129˚F to 140˚F), so make sure you heat and hold your oil phase at over that amount to ensure that it is completely melted when you combine the heated oil and heated water phase.

Lotionpro 165 tends to make thinner lotions, so if you want it to be the same thickness as your lotions with Polawax or e-wax, you'll want to add 2% or more thickeners like cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, or stearic acid to your heated oil phase.

If we were to use it in place of Polawax, we would want to use less Lotionpro 165 in our heated oil phase. For instance, in this lotion recipe, I used 4% with 25% oils and it emulsified wonderfully. And in this body butter recipe, I reduced the emulsifier to 5% for 30% oils. (Polawax would require us to use 25% of the oil amount for 7.5% emulsifier.)

If we take a look at our basic 70% water lotion recipe, we would reduce the amount of emulsifier by 2% and increase the water amount by 2%.

HEATED WATER PHASE (68.5% of the lotion)
70.5% water

HEATED OIL PHASE (29% of the lotion)
16% oil
5% butter
3% thickener
4% Lotionpro 165

COOL DOWN PHASE (1.5% of the lotion)
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% preservative (I use liquid Germall Plus)

Use the basic lotion making instructions for this product.

There are no special considerations when it comes to mixing, so use a hand mixer or stick blender to mix it. Add your cool down phase as normal.

Join me on Monday when we take a look at what we've learned about substituting our emulsifiers!


Anonymous said...

Great series and information on emulsifiers! Thank you Susan for this and everything you do!

Mette said...

Hi Susan,

first of all I am a big fan of your blog, you have help me in many situations starting to turn negative:o) Thank you....

I have some questions which I hope you can help me with. I am trying to make a baby lotion and I have Sucrose Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate and Cetearyl Alcohol on my hands.
As far as I understand (I'm a total beginner of making skin care products) Cetearyl Alcohol is mostly used as a thickener?
Would I be able to make a stable emulsion of Sucrose Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate?

I'm trying to keep the recipe as natural as possible.
And by the way, if the gramma is off English isn't my first language.

Hope you can help me out, have a nice weekend.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Mette. My short answer is to look at the blog for Saturday's Weekend Wonderings. The long answer is to look at HLB system section on the blog and do some math on your ingredients! Thanks for the interesting question!

Mette said...

Hi again,
I can't open the link to Saturday's Weekend Wonderings (it says that the page doesn't exist).
Is there a date that I can search for instead?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Try it now. It is today's Weekend Wonderings, which wasn't posted until today.