Lotionpro 165 (INCI Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate) an all-in-one non-ionic emulsifier based on the HLB system used in our heated oil phase to emulsify water and oil together to creation lotions and other emulsified products. It has an HLB value of about 11.2. (You don't need to know this in order to use it, but it's helpful information.)
It's known as an emulsifier that can emulsify large amounts of oil even when used in small amounts. The usage is 1% to 5%, with 2.5% to 5% suggested for 20% to 30%. It offers great stability with AHAs and BHAs (acids), so it would be a good choice for moisturizers. It comes in small white flakes, and we add it to the heated oil phase of your product. Its melting point is at 54˚C to 60 ˚C (129˚F to 140˚F), so make sure you heat and hold your oil phase at over that amount to ensure that it is completely melted when you combine the heated oil and heated water phase.
Lotionpro 165 tends to make thinner lotions, so if you want it to be the same thickness as your lotions with Polawax or e-wax, you'll want to add 2% or more thickeners like cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, or stearic acid to your heated oil phase.
in this lotion recipe, I used 4% with 25% oils and it emulsified wonderfully. And in this body butter recipe, I reduced the emulsifier to 5% for 30% oils. (Polawax would require us to use 25% of the oil amount for 7.5% emulsifier.)
If we take a look at our basic 70% water lotion recipe, we would reduce the amount of emulsifier by 2% and increase the water amount by 2%.
BASIC LOTION RECIPE
HEATED WATER PHASE (68.5% of the lotion)
HEATED OIL PHASE (29% of the lotion)
4% Lotionpro 165
COOL DOWN PHASE (1.5% of the lotion)
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% preservative (I use liquid Germall Plus)
Use the basic lotion making instructions for this product.
There are no special considerations when it comes to mixing, so use a hand mixer or stick blender to mix it. Add your cool down phase as normal.
Join me on Monday when we take a look at what we've learned about substituting our emulsifiers!