THE 25% RULE OF EMULSIFIER TO OIL PHASE...
The rule of using 25% of your oil phase as emulsifier ONLY applies to Polawax (and Natragem EW, which is a natural variation of Polawax, but it's hard to find, so it's not really come up before). Every emulsifier has its own suggested usage rate, and to have a lotion success, you have to follow those rules carefully.
For instance, use between 6% and 8% Ritamulse SCG for no more than 25% oils. Montanov 68 uses 1% to 5% for around 25% oils. Olivem 1000 can be used at 1% to 8% depending on the recipe, while Lotionpro 165 can be used at 1% to 4% for up to 30% or more oils. And so on.
If you have an emulsifier you simply can't figure out by reading your supplier's instructions, check out the frequently asked questions page on this blog to see how to use your emulsifiers or how to convert a recipe using one to another. And check out the list on the right hand side of the blog to see if I've reviewed it!
LOTIONPRO 165: YOUR NEW FAVOURITE EMULSIFIER!
For years, I worked with Polawax and Incroquat BTMS-50 as my emulsifiers of choice. But the last few years have brought so many new emulsifiers to our suppliers, and I've falling in love with Lotionpro 165. It makes the heaviest body butters feel fluffy and light, and it makes lotions feel less waxy than those with emulsifying wax NF or Polawax. You don't need much - 4% for a body butter, less for a lotion - and you can make light, fluffy moisturizers as it's very tolerant to AHAs.
If you're in Canada and you're interested in Lotionpro 165, Michele and Keith at Windy Point Soap is now carrying it! Seriously, get in on this stuff. It makes the lightest, fluffiest body butter you'll ever use! Check out this recipe on using it in a lotion,
As an aside, I'm working on a new e-book about using different emulsifiers in our products. My two e-books on lotion making - Lotion Making 101 and Formulating Lotions & Creams - have focused on Polawax, e-wax, and Incroquat BTMS-50. This new one will include more recipes for those, as well as Lotionpro 165, Montanov 68, Ritamulse SCG, Aristoflex AVC, Simulgreen 18-2, Olivem 1000, and more. I'm not sure when it'll be done as I won't have a lot of time for the month of April with an Iron Maiden concert (SQUEEEEE!) and International Tabletop Day, but I hope to get loads of time in May to write and experiment!