Emulthix, a cold process emulsifier. We made a nice, basic lotion with pumpkin seed oil, water, preservative, and emulsifier, then we made it a bit more complicated by adding humectants, proteins, extracts, and more! You know me, though, there's no way I can stop there! Let's make a few versions with some of my favourite things!
I always start with my goal or purpose. In this case, I want a light, slightly occlusive moisturizer for my hands and body. I think I'd like it a little thicker than last week's version, but I still want it to be slippery and easy to apply. My hands get really trashed during the day with crafting and too much washing, so I want something that is protecting, soothing, and moisturizing with loads of hydrating ingredients.
kukui nut oil and babassu oil. (You had to know I would try this emulsifier with these oils!) I find this combination offers a less greasy feeling, silky, extremely moisturizing combination.
The babassu oil thickens the product slightly and creates a light, occlusive layer, which is just lovely. It's a great substitute for coconut oil, which can be a bit greasy in recipes. (You could use coconut oil here, if you wish...)
Kukui nut oil has a lot of linoleic and linolenic fatty acids, which help speed up skin's ability to repair barrier damage and decrease transepidermal water loss.
No, I don't work for the babassu advisory council. I don't think there is one, but if there were, I wouldn't work for them. I just have a serious love for this solid oil!
Remember, you can use whatever oils and butters you want here by substituting your favourites. These are just the ones I really like.
cetyl alcohol. If you want something slightly less greasy feeling, you could use behenyl alcohol. If you want something more waxy, consider using cetearyl alcohol.
A lotion isn't a lotion for me without a humectant. These hygroscopic ingredients draw water from the atmosphere for extra hydration. I've got all kinds in my workshop, but the ones I use the most are glycerin and sodium lactate. Either would be great in this product, but I think I'll go for glycerin in this as it can withstand washing, and I tend to wash my hands a few times during the day. I'll use it at 3%, but you could use a number of different humectants here like 2% sodium lactate, 2% sodium PCA, 3% honeyquat, and so on.
I think I'd like to include some chamomile extract in this product. It's an anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant. It also reduces transepidermal water loss for up to 48 hours, which is pretty awesome. I think I'll use a powdered extract at 0.5% in the water phase.
And what about marshmallow extract? I have a nice water soluble one that can offer film forming and anti-inflammatory properties. I think I'll use it at 5% in the water phase. And what about this water soluble calendula I have? It offers anti-inflammatory properties and soothes inflamed and chapped skin, which sounds pretty awesome to me!
panthenol as it's exactly what I want in this recipe. It will help with chapped or wounded skin. It improves hydration and helps speed up skin's barrier repair mechanisms. I definitely have to use it at 2% in this recipe!
I think I'll try some water soluble colloidal oatmeal* (from Formulator Sample Shop) at up to 10% in the water phase. It's supposed to soothe and moisturize, which is exactly what I want.
And I'm adding allantoin as it's awesome and does all these things I want, from soothing chapped or broken skin to forming an occlusive layer. Why wouldn't I use this awesome ingredient?
Please remember that you have to use distilled, de-ionized, or reverse osmosis water in this recipe as we aren't heating it. Filtered water just doesn't cut it here.
COLLOIDAL OAT, MARSHMALLOW, AND CHAMOMILE HAND & BODY LOTION WITH EMULTHIX
HEATED OIL PHASE
10% babassu oil
10% kukui nut oil
3% cetyl alcohol
45.5% distilled water
10% colloidal oat
5% marshmallow extract
5% calendula extract
COOL DOWN PHASE (if necessary)
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% liqud Germall Plus
Weigh your oil phase into a larger container, as the water will be poured into the oil. Heat the oil phase in a double boiler until the babassu oil and cetyl alcohol are just melted. (Your oil will be clear when you have heated it enough.)
Weigh your water phase into a container. You can heat the water slightly before adding to dissolve the powders a little easier.
Pour the water phase into the oil phase in a slow stream while mixing with a stick or immersion blender. And you're done! Woo!
Point of Interest: I do get free things from time to time from suppliers, and the emulsifer, Emulthix, is one of those things that Jen at Lotioncrafter has given me. None of the links you click to any site on this blog affiliate links - I just learned what those were and thought I should re-assure you, my lovely readers, that I make no money and gain no reward if you buy something from any supplier anywhere. I provide you with buying information for those harder to find ingredients because you've said you wanted it!
Join me tomorrow for more fun with Emulthix when we create a light facial lotion with Emulthix.
Emulsifiers: Emulthix - a light, cold process lotion
Emulsifiers: Emulthix - a light, cold process lotion with white tea, pumpkin seed oil, and baobab protein