Wednesday, May 10, 2017

Recipes from the 2017 HSCG conference: Gigawhite & Vitamin C moisturizer with Aristoflex AVC - the active ingredients and recipe

On Monday, we took a look at the oil phase and emulsifier for this recipe. Yesterday, we took a look at the water phase and preservative. Today, let's take a look at the active ingredient and the final recipe.

I’m adding Alpaflor® Gigawhite (INCI: Water, Glycerin, Alcohol, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Primula Veris Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Veronica Officinalis Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract), an ECOcert extract. It can be used at 3% to 5% to help promote a more even skin tone and uniform complexion in all over products or targeted treatments.

This ingredient can decrease the viscosity of Aristoflex AVC a titch, but it's not a big deal as the recipe is thick enough.

Please note, it is important to make this recipe in the order you see below. If you change an ingredient, figure out in which phase you should include it before starting the process. I know it seems silly, but it can make such a difference in the viscosity of the final product.

GIGAWHITE & VITAMIN C MOISTURIZER
WATER SOLUBLE INGREDIENTS
80.5% distilled water
2% sea kelp bioferment
2% panthenol (powder)
0.5% allantoin

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
3% propanediol 1,3
0.5% resveratrol
5% Alpaflor Gigawhite

OIL SOLUBLE INGREDIENTS
2% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
3% squalane

EMULSIFIER
1% Aristoflex AVC

PRESERVATIVE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

1. Measure the slightly heated distilled or de-ionized water into a container. 
2. Add your water soluble ingredients. 
3. Mix the propanediol 1,3 with the resveratrol into a small container, like a shot glass. When dissolved, add to the larger container along with Gigawhite.
4. Add the oil soluble ingredients. 
5. Add the Aristoflex AVC. 
6. Add the preservative. 
7. Mix well. Bottle, and rejoice! 

Pretty simple, eh? If you're organized and can gather your ingredients quickly, it takes no more than 10 minutes to make a completely emulsified lotion! 

Links to buy this ingredient from Lotioncrafter: Alpaflor® Gigawhite

As a note, none of these links are affiliate links and I do not receive any sort of compensation if you buy something from Lotioncrafter. I provide them as Jen was so kind to supply all the ingredients for the conference at great expense to her company, and this is my way of saying thanks for spending so much time to make sure my presentation was the best it could be! 

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at the niacinamide & willow bark oil free hydro-gel. 

4 comments:

Sheri Elison said...

I am new to making my own skincare...I am a soaper, lol. I want to take the leap so I have purchased all the ingredients from lotioncrafters. I had a couple questions before I get started. You say to heat the distilled water slightly....to about what temp? Also, you say mix well....do I use an emmersion blender or does it matter? How do I know when to stop, lol? Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Sheri

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Sheri! You only need to heat it slightly to dissolve the allantoin. Let's say to 40˚C. Mix with a small immersion blender or one beater on a mixer. It only takes a few minutes before you'll see it thicken and become like a lotion.

Have you tried it yet?

BrNy said...

This has been idling on my "to do list" waaay too long and now that I finally got some Alpaflor, I will make it pronto! Just a quick question: i have made lotions with resveratrol before that turned a dark yellow color in a matter of days, darkening up even more as weeks passed... Is that a common reaction from the resveratrol? Or it means the lotion oxidized (pardon my ignorance!) Any ideas will be appreciated! Thanks, Thais - cheers from Brazil!

BrNy said...

Hi again Susan, I made this today but used 1% sea kelp instead and added 3% Penstia powder at the very end (and adjusted the water amount accordingly.) I made only 50g though ... 100g of serum/gel would take forever to finish, soecially considering I just made 3 other facial products in the past week alone!! I loved this lotion/creamy serum, it sinks in pretty quickly and feels sooo nice on the skin. The Penstia really is a special ingredient. My other Aristoflex lotions felt nice but "watery" compared to how creamy it feels now. Thanks once again for coming up with these great recipes. And good luck with everything the future brings you.

ust wondering if I can keep using the product if the color turns yellow again.