SCI - as if you hadn't noticed yet! - and we can make moisturizing and conditioning shampoos for dry or normal to oily hair by using either the type with stearic acid or the type without. Today we'll be using the type with stearic acid (check with your supplier, but if you have the flakes or noodles you likely have stearic acid type SCI), and tomorrow we'll take a look at using the stuff without for oily hair types!
Yesterday, we took a look at a conditioning shampoo for dry hair. If we add a little SCI with stearic acid, we can make this a creamy feeling shampoo that makes our hair feel conditioned afterwards. You can use the glycol distearate at 2% in this recipe to give it a more pearlized look! If you include both the SCI and glycol distearate, you shouldn't need to include any extra Crothix (although if you're using citrus or vanilla based fragrance or essential oils, you might thin the mixture enough to need just a titch!)
CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR WITH SCI AND GLYCOL DISTEARATE
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% SCI (with stearic acid)
5% SMC taurate or decyl glucoside
10% aloe vera
2% glycol distearate
2% hydrolyzed protein
COOL DOWN PHASE
3% cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% to 2% fragrance or essential oils
(up to 2% Crothix - when cooled down - optional)
Remember to melt your SCI with your cocamidopropyl betaine first while heating the other ingredients in a separate container. Then add them together and heat until they mix together well. Don't heat the cool down phase - add it when the mixture has been removed from the heat and allowed to come to 45˚C.
This may end up being very thick - too thick for your taste - so feel free to reduce the SCI to 5% and increase the liquid surfactant (SMC taurate or decyl glucoside) to 10%. You can also increase the water amount, if you wish. Also, feel free to remove the glycol distearate - we already have some nice emollients in the form of stearic acid in the SCI, so the glycol distearate may be too moisturizing for some.
If you want to make this as a clarifying shampoo, take out the 3% cationic polymer and 2% dimethicone and increase the water amount by 5%. That was easy, eh?
Can we make this lovely conditioned-feeling concoction for normal to oily hair? Yes! Join me tomorrow for that recipe!